Can U Cut It? In Fashion

Adrian Wollaston is head of menswear preview design at Firetrap. This means he is responsible for advance collections, which can be found in store ahead of the company’s main season’s collections. Here he tells us his story:

I’ve always had two main passions. The first is fashion, and my interest in this started when I became aware of the “mod” movement. To this day the movement, which is linked to the music world, goes on as modern-day stars such as the Ordinary Boys and Pete Docherty favour the “slim-fit trouser” look. As for my second passion, it is engineering and I have always believed that the principles of design are the same whether you work in fashion, the car industry or aerospace.

I decided that I would put both interests to good use by studying an HND in pattern-cutting and design at Salford College of Technology (now the University of Salford), as I wanted to learn the technical skills that would make me a competent designer. As part of my course I undertook a tailoring apprenticeship, which allowed me to practice pattern-cutting skills.

As for my first job in the fashion industry, I worked as a pattern-cutting / grading assistant for a high-street fashion women’s / menswear company based in Manchester. Because the industry is so competitive I had to knock on a lot of doors before being offered a position, and always took along my portfolio and actual garments I had made when attending interviews.

Then, having worked in a number of similar roles working on both men’s and women’s wear, I was offered a position at Ted Baker (men’s division) so moved south to London. My next move was to work for Hope and Glory. I feel that having experience of women’s design has made me a better menswear designer as women’s wear uses more colour and detail.

It was in September 2004 that I joined the jeans-wear label, Firetrap. Renowned for its vintage-style detailing and “strict cuts”, garments are designed to stand out from the crowd without having to rely on labels. The brand is aimed at both men and women aged 18 upwards.

As head of menswear design (preview), I am responsible for designing 70 key pieces each season, which not only go into stores slightly before the main collection, but can also influence it.

Always working one year in advance, I start my designs by first liaising with the company’s chief executive and production manager. Once budgets and the colour pallet have been agreed, I conduct research to get the inspiration for my designs. This involves looking at style leaders including celebrities, what people on the street are wearing and also visiting art galleries.

Those who work in the “high-fashion market”, which requires stores to quickly react to what’s happening on the catwalks, don’t have the research and development opportunities that are available when working in either haute couture or designer ready-to-wear.

So once I have my inspiration, I produce designs – followed by the making-up of sample garments. I work closely with the in-house garment technologist to ensure the quality / usability of my designs and this includes choosing fabrics that are fit-for-purpose – a jacket that can only be dry-cleaned is not ideal for everyday use.

I then have to present my designs to the company, including the PR, marketing and sales teams, who are consulted to ensure the garments being put forward fit in with the Firetrap brand.

Once I get the go-ahead for a collection to go into production, I visit manufacturers and asses their capabilities. Like the vast majority of UK-based fashion labels, Firetrap uses manufacturers which are based-overseas, so it’s essential that I take along accurate technical drawings that I can leave behind. It’s also important that I have an understanding of logistics – how long will orders take to arrive from overseas manufacturers? Does this fit in with the timescales our stores work to?

Being able to solve problems, including manufacturers not being able to meet deadlines etc, is another requirement of my job. And I find there’s nothing better than when a garment comes back from the manufacture on time and as I had envisaged.

Because Firetrap is a worldwide brand, it’s essential that I am aware of how requirements differ from one country to another. So as well as working on the preview collection, I also work on “special projects”, which can include researching a particular country and the design requirements.

The very nature of being a fashion designer often means working long hours and being prepared never to switch off. Even when I’ve finished work, I am constantly looking out for unusual colours and observe what people are wearing and so on – designers are always looking for inspiration.

My advice to anyone who wants to become a fashion designer is that first and foremost, you need the necessary technical skills to enable you to execute your designs. These skills will not only make you a better designer, but also give you the edge when it comes to securing a job. To be successful you need to be able to create a garment from start to finish, otherwise you can’t give accurate instructions to manufacturers.

Also, choose a course that offers a practical element – work placements are essential for developing industry knowledge. However, college / university is just the starting point – you will still have a lot to learn and perfect before you can call yourself a fashion designer, so be prepared to work hard.

But remember “fashion designer” is not the only career opportunity. Roles such as garment technologists / pattern-cutter and sample machinists are well-respected and sought after.